Rome, Italy - Dream Vacations Circle of Excellence Trip, April 11, 2023

 We took the train from the airport to central Rome.  The process was easy – we purchased a one-way ticket at a kiosk in the airport then proceeded to the appropriate platform.  The train was clean with adequate seating for everyone. 

The Rome Central Train Terminal is quite large with trains coming from all over Italy.  We had selected a hotel near the Train Terminal because we would be using the train coming from the Airport then on to Venice at the end of the week.  The hotel and train terminal were within walking distance even with our luggage.

 Thank goodness that our room was ready when arriving at the hotel, Mecenate Palace Hotel.  The location overlooked the Basilica Papale di Santa Maria Maggiore.  The room was small but quite comfortable.  There was a rooftop bar and restaurant.  We went to the restaurant for breakfast each morning.  There was a breakfast buffet.  The buffet was sufficient – enough to fill us up, however the selections were very European. 

Another bonus of the location of the hotel was the distance to one of the stops for the hop-on hop-off bus stops.  We decided to start our day by riding the bus around to get a feel for where things were located in the City.  The line for the bus was exceptionally long due to being two days after Easter and spring break for many families.  We had to wait an hour before being able to get on a bus.  Even then, we were on the bottom floor.  When seats became available on the top floor of the bus, we moved up there for a better view of the City.  The wind was cool, but we survived. 

We had arranged for a Food Tour in the Trastevere section of Rome that evening.  We knew that we would have to eat so having someone arrange for a variety would be nice.  There were 12 on the tour – 1 local guide (Aria), the two of us, five friends from California and four family members from Pittsburgh, PA.  Jerry was the only male in the group.  The ladies from California (Monique, Beatrice, Anne, Angela, and Elsa) had been touring Italy for a few weeks.  They had been staying at monasteries which have converted to “hotels” as a revenue stream.  They said that the facilities were typically 3-star with breakfast included.  The nuns were all helpful with local tourist information.  The family from Pittsburgh was a mother (Stacy), 2 daughters (Elizabeth and Sarah) and an aunt (Angela).  The girls were on spring break from high school. 

First stop was a cheese and meat store, La Norcineria di Iacozzilli.  Aria, the guide, told us how the different cheeses and meats were made.  She specifically spoke about Parmesan cheese.  Only if it was made in a specific region could it be called Parmigiano otherwise it was called Parmesan.  We then had a sample glass of wine from the Ciu Ciu winery.    

From there, we went to a pizzeria, Alice Pizza al Taglio.  Pizza is sold by the weight in Rome.   Besides pizza, we also had Suppli.  Suppli is a breaded, fried delight which could have most anything inside – meat, tomato sauce, cheese, rice, risotto.  Ours had risotto, cheese, and tomato sauce.  Suppli means surprise which is why there could be anything inside.

 Next stop was a restaurant for our main course, pasta, and wine, Ristorante Spirito DiVino.  Aria explained that good, tasty dishes have a minimal amount of ingredients – pasta, olive oil, herbs, and another ingredient.  Keeping it simple, makes it taste better.  The restaurant had a wine cellar which was fun to explore with the group.  There were cases of the house wine being stored.  There were also bottles of wine on the shelf with heavy dust and cobwebs.  Who knows the age or the quality of that wine? 

Last stop – gelato!  Italians pride themselves on their gelato, and there are many, many gelato shops.  We went to Gelateria Fior di Luna.  They are also generous with their scoops of gelato.  Two scoops are more than enough to enjoy the bountiful flavors daily.

Jacksonville, NC to Rome, Italy - Circle of Excellence Trip, April 10-11, 2023

Our travel started on a Monday, which is unusual for us.  Typical travel starts towards the end of the week or weekend.  Monday travel date has its advantages – trash day is Monday so all our trash would be clear, and we had the entire weekend to pack for the trip.  Another bonus was an afternoon flight.  This allowed us to wash towels and linens along with having lunch prior to leaving.  We like to have the house tidy and clean when leaving for a trip.  There is less stress when we return, and we only need to tend to the dirty laundry which we brought back. 

Check-in at the Albert J. Ellis Airport (OAJ) in Jacksonville was seamless.  The American Airlines workers had not heard of FCO airport before.  FCO is for Fiumicino or Leonardo da Vinci Airport in Rome, Italy.  We like to believe that we are helping the statistics of OAJ when we travel to foreign locations. 

There was 2 ½ hours between flights in the Charlotte Airport (CLT).  We spent our time in the American Lounge.  It was a busy location with few seats available.  It allows us time to relax, have a drink and snack before heading to our next flight.  

The flight to Rome was leaving at 6pm, which was perfect to have dinner on the plane before settling in to sleep.  The hope is that by sleeping through the flight, we would be able to adjust to the time difference quicker. 

Bonus for this flight – we were able to upgrade to Business Class the morning of the flight.  Being our first time in Business Class, we were looking forward to the experience.  Virg was in a seat by the window while Jerry had one across the aisle on the inside. 

Amenities were noise cancelling headphones, toiletries bag, standard size pillow and a comfortable blanket.  The seat could fully recline to a flat position.  Pure luxury compared to Economy seating.

To celebrate the trip, we had champagne prior to take-off.  Dinner was several courses – starters were warmed nuts, salad and beef over a bed of hummus.  This was plenty, and we thought that was the meal.  Our meals were rigatoni with mixed vegetables for Virg while Jerry had spicy chicken.  Ice cream sundaes topped off the meal.  It was a delightful, tasty meal along with a glass of wine.

We settled down to sleep.  Jerry was able to get four solid hours of sleep; having his CPap helps.  Virg could not fall asleep quickly, so she enjoyed a movie and tried to sleep afterwards.  Though she did not sleep well, it was the most comfortable that she had been on a plane.

For breakfast, the choice was an egg frittata or yogurt with fruit.  The flight had some turbulence at times though not enough to make the flight unnerving.  Bonus - the plane arrived in Rome an hour early.

Customs were seamless.  There were no lines.  We scanned our passports at a digital kiosk then presented them to a customs agent who stamped them!  Few countries stamp passports so there is always excitement when it does occur. 

The extra hour that we gained from the flight was lost at baggage claim.  Our luggage was not loaded on the plane at CLT.  We had noticed in the app prior to leaving CLT that they had not been scanned, however we did not think much of it.  With air tags in the luggage, we could distinctly see that they were still at CLT.  It was not just our luggage – there were about 2 dozen other passengers whose luggage had not made the flight.  Many had air tags which showed their luggage at the same location as ours.

The customer service representatives at the luggage counter kept saying to check the carousel because the status was not showing a problem in the computer.  Everyone reassured her that the luggage was indeed at CLT, and the system had not been updated yet.

It took time to process the paperwork to report the lost luggage.  Fortunately, we had brought a change of clothes and toiletries in our carry-on luggage.  Plus, we were spending several days in Rome, which would allow time for the luggage to catch up with us.  It still did not make up for the inconvenience of the entire situation. 

Day 12 - Ushuaia to Buenos Aires to MIA to CLT to OAJ, March 8-9, 2023

We woke up at 5:30am in order to be ready for breakfast which started at 6:30am.  The ship was already at the Ushuaia dock along with three other ships.  Breakfast was buffet as we were to start clearing the ship by 7:30am. 

We joined the others in the Atlas Lounge to wait for our color to be called.  The colors were divided amongst the passengers to fill the buses to the airport with equal numbers.  Our luggage was set out by 1am the night before and would be taken to the airport by Atlas. 

As we were leaving the ship, the Expedition Guides and Ship Crew lined up to bid us farewell.  It brought tears to my eyes as we had become close with several of the Crew. Michael the Cruise Director and Llewellyn from Reception gave me big hugs.  They made the trip enjoyable and memorable.

Our charter flight from Ushuaia to Buenos Aires was on Bondi Air.  It was a lower budget airline but nice enough for the time spent on it.  The flight was full, and our seats were near the back – near the restroom.  This group of passengers visit the restroom frequently. 

We arrived in Buenos Aries by 1:30pm.  Pete and Gen were staying an extra night while the rest of our flights were not until after 8pm.  Our airlines were not allowing check-in until later so the rest of us stayed together in the airport.  We enjoyed games of Skip-Bo, listening to an all-girls orchestra and exploring the airport.

Currently, the BA Airport has 2 terminals – A and C.  B Terminal is being built.  Jenna's flight was leaving from Terminal C, so we walked her there.  As we passed Terminal B, there was a celebration that evening to celebrate the upcoming opening of Terminal B.  We saw a red-carpet welcome along with a few in tuxedos to commemorate the occasion.

After checking in for our flights, Jerry, Melanie and Virginia went to the American Airlines Admirals Club to enjoy complimentary food until our flights.  Even though we had walked Jenna to Terminal C, her gate looped around to be near our gate in Terminal A.  She was able to join us in the Lounge until all of our flights were boarding.  Argentina is famous for Malbec wines.  I did not have any on the cruise however was able to enjoy a glass of Lagarde Malbec in the Lounge - highly recommend (the wine and the Lounge).

Despite having gone through Security to access the terminals and boarding area, there was security prior to boarding the flight who was reviewing all carry-ons and not allowing any liquids on board.  This caused great frustration for a few reasons - it slowed the boarding process, and many had purchased drinks prior to their flight and were then told to throw them away.  Much grumbling was apparent by all passengers in many languages.

We did not have the pleasure of an empty seat in our row for the flight to Miami.  Our seatmate was in the window seat and slept the entire flight - not even getting up for a bathroom break.  The flight went well and arrived a bit early to Miami.

Yeah for Global Entry!  There is a fee and an interview to qualify for Global Entry however it is worth the price.  We are able to cruise through Immigrations and Custom quickly without waiting in line.  Check out this website for details: https://www.cbp.gov/travel/trusted-traveler-programs/global-entry

The Admirals Club in Miami was top notch.  Fresh omelets were being made, and Mimosa and Bloody-Mary ingredients were available to make the breakfast extra special. 

Having extra time before our next flight, Jerry decided to take a shower.  The Lounge had complimentary showers for use; he signed up for one and quickly had access to a hot shower.  During his shower, the fire alarm went off several times though there was an announcement to disregard the alarm.  It eventually stopped.

It is amazing who you will meet when travelling.  We came across a friend from World Travel Holdings in the Lounge.  (Actually it was Brad Tolkin, Chairman/CEO of WTH, but whose name dropping.)  I love our travels when we come across friends and family in others parts of the world.

The rest of the day proceeded well - the flights from Miami to Charlotte to Jacksonville went off without a hitch.  We were glad to arrive home at the respectful time of 5:30pm.  

On to home where our mail (well organized by our neighbor and parents) and fur babies were waiting for us.  

This is one trip that we will never forget - so unique.  

What is on your travel bucket list?  Life is short - book the flight, take the trip! 

Day 10 - Drake Passage, March 6. 2023

Jerry and I woke up to the ship rocking and rolling.  We had started the return through the Drake Passage.  In the Fitness Center, we had to keep one hand on the treadmill to prevent falling.  After the Fitness Center, we had breakfast.

There were lectures planned throughout the day to keep the passengers occupied.  The Auditorium is at the front of the ship and takes a lot of the hits from waves.  The movement in the Auditorium adds to one’s motion sickness.  There are options to watch the presentation being streamed in the Lounge or in one’s cabin.  Unfortunately, the lecture streaming would break up which was frustrating.

Lecture topics included Antarctic Ecology, “Who does Antarctica belong to?”, Work and Life of Modern Polar Explorers, and Management of Antarctic Krill.  Antarctica was known to exist for many years before anyone actually seen it which was in 1820.  Maps and charts showed Antarctica for thousands of years prior to 1820.  Of the mythical and magical places of the world (Atlantis, El Dorado, Fountain of Youth), Antarctica is the only one to be found.  “Antarctica is a privilege, not a right.”

During high tea, our group participated in Disney song “Name That Tune.”  There was a mix of new and older songs and movies represented.  We won!  30 out of 40 points possible.  The ship was hitting the swells.  The bow of the ship would go so high that the horizon would disappear.  Then the ship would go so low that the water would come over the 7^th deck.  It was quite a roller coaster ride!

The afternoon presented a fun time to rest and nap while the ship continued its Drake Passage. 

The Captain hosted a reception prior to dinner.  This gave an opportunity to celebrate the Ship’s crew and Expedition Guide for a wonderful trip.

The theme for dinner was “Captain’s Gala.”  Meal selection included caviar, Lobster Thermidor, and Surf and Turf. 

Entertainment was “Edutainment with Catherine” – “How Big is it?”  She hung a string between two poles in the Atlas Lounge.  Each team was provided with a clothes pin with their team name.  She asked questions such as “How large is the average whale tail of a humpback whale?” “How long is the Zodiac?”, “How tall is Jean-Roch, the Lead Expedition Guide?” and “What is the wingspan of the Albatross?”  It was a fun, entertaining, educational game.  Teams had different ways of measuring and defensive tactics.  Team Chinstrap of Sheridan, Gary and Pete won first place!

Day 11 - Drake Passage, March 7, 2023

Another morning rocking and rolling through the Drake Passage.  It as not as bad as the previous day however it was still difficult to walk a straight line on the ship.  Jean-Roch reminded us to “Keep One Hand for the Ship” which meant in order to stay steady keep one hand on railings and walls.  First time that I heard this phrase, and we were putting it to good use.

Our morning started in the Fitness Center followed by breakfast.  Gen was feeling better and joined us at breakfast.  We packed a bit then Virginia went to the bird watching session on Deck 5 Aft with two of the Expedition Guides, Rodrigo and Catherine.  We saw an Albatross and Giant Brown Petrels.  They like to fly in the draft of the ship.

There were other lectures throughout the day – “Sled Dogs of the Antarctic”, “Climate Change”, and “Arctic Photography”.  Sled Dogs were introduced in the early 1900s and stayed there for 40 years.  Then it was decided that only animals native to the Antarctic could stay.  The dogs were sent to the Hudson Valley to Inuit Tribes. 

During High Tea, Michael the Cruise Director and Luis the Hotel Director talked about life on the Ship.  Luis started his career with Royal Caribbean on the Sovereign of the Seas.  It is very possible that he was on some of the Royal Ships which we sailed.  Of the 150 passengers on board, there were 18 nationalities including American, British, Canadian, Australian, Israeli, Mexican, French among others.  There are 28 nationalities withing the Crew.  It is always fun to ask questions directly to the Ship Crew and get to know them on a personal level.

The ship had made good distance and arrived close to the Beagle Channel by early afternoon.  The winds and waves quickly dissipated which made for a pleasant journey. This allowed the Captain to slow the ship and meander towards the channel to meet with a pilot boat in the middle of the night.

There was one last recap prior to dinner.  Each Expedition Team Member selected one photo or video which they most cherished from the week.  This was followed by a video montage by Videl, the photographer.  Highlights included the Minke Whales following us through the Lemaire Channel, the Leopard Seal following the Zodiacs through the Iceberg Graveyard, the sighting of a rare Snow Petrel – so many precious memories.  What a blessing it has been to experience this with our daughters and friends. 

Two young passengers, brother and sister from Australia, shared a special thank you to the crew, Expedition Team and passengers who made their visit special.  They concluded their appreciation by offering everyone to visit them in Australia.

Dinner theme was an Asian Fusion buffet.  There was a beautiful sunset to cap off a beautiful night.  Michael and Chase entertained us with songs of travel in the Dome.

Day 9 - Exploring Antarctica, George's Point and Fournier Bay, March 5, 2023

We were to have our last landing to Georges Point.  The day was overcast with snow on and off throughout the landing – big flakes of snow along with wind.  After dressing to go on the Zodiac, we were delayed because there was a humpback whale and a calve swimming in the area.  The other Zodiacs spent time for passengers to view it up close.

On Georges Point were Leopard Seal, Gentoo Penguin, Chinstrap Penguin and Skua birds.  At first, it was hard to distinguish between the seal and rocks until the seal would move.  It snowed so much during our short visit to the Island that it was soon easy to distinguish between the seals and rocks.  The seals were having a good time playing with on another and playing in the snow.

The Skua bird kept an eye to the penguin colony.  If they saw a young or older penguin that was struggling, they would claim them as a meal.  During breeding season, these Skua birds like to steal the penguin eggs for a meal.  Once again, circle of life.

Male and Female penguin look similar.  This makes it easy for them to share parental care.  One parent will stay with the egg then the baby while the other searches for food then vice versa.  By the parents looking alike, the baby will feel comfortable and secure with whichever parent they are with.

In the afternoon, we would be cruising Fournier Bay.  This is a good area to view whale, ice cliffs, ice bergs and glaciers.  The weather was overcast, windy with on and off sleet.  This cut short the number of Zodiacs which were able to cruise.  Our Zodiac pilot was Jean-Roc, the lead Expedition Guide.  No matter how much we searched, no whale was to be found. 

Because of the lack of whales, we learned more about ice cliffs and icebergs.  Jean-Roch explained the difference between glaciers and ice cliffs.  Ice Cliffs melt from the bottom.  The water erodes them by splashing at the bottom.  This makes them safer than glaciers calving.  The dangers of swells and waves do not occur with ice cliffs melting. 

We found an iceberg floating with a huge rock on it.  This occurred when ice would be melting into crevices and pulling stone and rocks with them.  Then the glacier would freeze with the stones and rock in it.  The clearer the ice, the older it is.  This is due to the air being compressed out of the ice. 

In a small bay, we came across two young Chinstrap Penguin hanging out together on a rock.  Everyone was concerned that they were by themselves away from the Colony.  Jean-Roch assured us that penguin travel together so finding them in a pair was normal.

The weather quickly turned with minimal visibility and sleet.  Jean-Roch called all of the Zodiacs back to the ship and cancelled the last group which was set to go out.  Disappointing for those who did not get the last cruise in.  We were fortunate to get the early landing in on the second day of the expedition.

At dinner, we celebrated Jerry and Virginia’s 35^th Wedding Anniversary and Gary and Sheridan’s 42^nd Wedding Anniversary.

A special treat for the passengers after dinner was a Ship Crew Talent Show.  Performances included a native Bali Dance by Dewi, the server at Paula’s Pantry, singing by Llewellyn from Guest Services, opera by Chase Chandler the piano player, guitar solos from Rodrio (Expedition Guide) and Thomas (Laundry).  Throughout the night, a raffle was held for various items from the gift shop.  The proceeds from the sale of the raffle tickets goes to the Crew Fund – funding parties, supporting their families and other needs.

Another fundraiser was an auction of the navigation map highlighting the path of the ship.  Two passengers were in a bidding war, and each bought a map for $1650 each.

Day 8, Exploring Antarctica, Lemaire Channel, Petermann Island, March 4, 2023

The ship was projected to be going through the Lemaire Channel in the early morning.  Sheridan had sold us on the beauty of this area.  It was a narrower area lined with tall glaciers.  Jerry and I chose to walk the track on the upper deck while maneuvering through the Channel at 7am.  Other passengers were congregating on the other outside decks to soak in the beauty.  Water’s Edge, the outside space on the 5^th deck has a heated seat which made viewing comfortable.

Two Minke Whales were playing in the water alongside the ship.  They are playful like dolphin – in and out of the water, clearing their blowhole and flapping their fins.  Due to the amount of ice and icebergs, it took at least an hour to maneuver through the Channel.

When we arrived at our designated landing space, there was too much ice against the shore preventing a safe landing.  We would be enjoying cruises in the Zodiac around the Iceberg Graveyard.  This was a bay where the current would push icebergs then trap them in the bay to “die”, aka melt.  The sizes, shapes and colors of the icebergs are amazing.  Photos cannot fully capture the majestic scene.  One needs to see it in person to fully appreciate the views.

A Leopard Seal followed our Zodiac for some time.  The bubbles of the Zodiac motor attracted it.  The seal would swim from one side to the other.  The water was clear enough to watch it swim below the water line then pop up.  We came upon a Crabeater Seal resting on an iceberg.  The Leopard Seal was very attentive, bouncing out of the water and sizing it up.  The mouth of the Leopard Seal opens 270 degrees to help capture its’ prey.  The Crabeater Seal was chattering a bit in hopes of scaring off the Leopard Seal.  The Leopard Seal determined that this Crabeater Seal was too large, so it lived to see another day.   

Fun fact - Crabeater Seals do not eat crabs.  Its’ name comes from its species name “carcinophaga” which means crab eater.  They eat krill.  They have lobe shaped teeth which allows them to filter the krill.  Though we realize that there is a circle of life all around us, we were glad not to witness it on the Zodiac ride.

Many of the Marine life eat krill.  Healthy penguin poo after eating krill will be pink on the ground and snow.  When the penguins are stressed, their poo is yellow and green.

Bad Joke – Which country is the largest consumer of krill?  Wales. 🐋😆

Our afternoon landing was at Petermann Island.  There was a small research hut on the island owned by the Argentine government; it was not open the day of our visit.  We were excited to see a different type of penguin – Adelie penguin.  The penguin were named for Adelie Land which had been named for Adle Dumont d’Urville who was married to French Explorer Jules Dumont d’Urville who discovered the penguin in 1840.  The Adelie penguin has a full black head with a white ring around its black iris.  It has a shorter breeding season than the Gentoo and Chinstrap.  The young are mature enough at 50-60 days to go out to sea. 

There were Gentoo penguin on Petermann Island, too.  Due to global warming, the Gentoo are moving into areas which are warming where previously other penguin breeds such as the Adelie only lived.  This is pushing the Adelie into other areas for breeding and finding food. 

A cross was erected on Petermann Island in memory of three members of the British Antarctic Survey who died in 1982 while crossing the sea from Petermann Island to Faraday Station.

Also found on this Island were Sku seabirds.  These brown birds are known to hang around penguin colonies to eat penguin eggs and penguin chicks.

After dinner, we enjoyed a musical selection by Michael Shapiro, the Cruise Director.  He had interesting, heart felt and at times, amusing stories of why the songs were significant to him.  Before singing “Annie’s Song” by John Denver, Michael told us about the time that he met John Denver.  John had been drinking.  Michael told him how beautiful he found “Annie’s Song” to be.  The song was name after John’s wife, Annie.  Drunk John told Michael that “the bitch was divorcing him and suing him for a lot of money”.