Day 10 - Drake Passage, March 6. 2023

Jerry and I woke up to the ship rocking and rolling.  We had started the return through the Drake Passage.  In the Fitness Center, we had to keep one hand on the treadmill to prevent falling.  After the Fitness Center, we had breakfast.

There were lectures planned throughout the day to keep the passengers occupied.  The Auditorium is at the front of the ship and takes a lot of the hits from waves.  The movement in the Auditorium adds to one’s motion sickness.  There are options to watch the presentation being streamed in the Lounge or in one’s cabin.  Unfortunately, the lecture streaming would break up which was frustrating.

Lecture topics included Antarctic Ecology, “Who does Antarctica belong to?”, Work and Life of Modern Polar Explorers, and Management of Antarctic Krill.  Antarctica was known to exist for many years before anyone actually seen it which was in 1820.  Maps and charts showed Antarctica for thousands of years prior to 1820.  Of the mythical and magical places of the world (Atlantis, El Dorado, Fountain of Youth), Antarctica is the only one to be found.  “Antarctica is a privilege, not a right.”

During high tea, our group participated in Disney song “Name That Tune.”  There was a mix of new and older songs and movies represented.  We won!  30 out of 40 points possible.  The ship was hitting the swells.  The bow of the ship would go so high that the horizon would disappear.  Then the ship would go so low that the water would come over the 7^th deck.  It was quite a roller coaster ride!

The afternoon presented a fun time to rest and nap while the ship continued its Drake Passage. 

The Captain hosted a reception prior to dinner.  This gave an opportunity to celebrate the Ship’s crew and Expedition Guide for a wonderful trip.

The theme for dinner was “Captain’s Gala.”  Meal selection included caviar, Lobster Thermidor, and Surf and Turf. 

Entertainment was “Edutainment with Catherine” – “How Big is it?”  She hung a string between two poles in the Atlas Lounge.  Each team was provided with a clothes pin with their team name.  She asked questions such as “How large is the average whale tail of a humpback whale?” “How long is the Zodiac?”, “How tall is Jean-Roch, the Lead Expedition Guide?” and “What is the wingspan of the Albatross?”  It was a fun, entertaining, educational game.  Teams had different ways of measuring and defensive tactics.  Team Chinstrap of Sheridan, Gary and Pete won first place!

Day 11 - Drake Passage, March 7, 2023

Another morning rocking and rolling through the Drake Passage.  It as not as bad as the previous day however it was still difficult to walk a straight line on the ship.  Jean-Roch reminded us to “Keep One Hand for the Ship” which meant in order to stay steady keep one hand on railings and walls.  First time that I heard this phrase, and we were putting it to good use.

Our morning started in the Fitness Center followed by breakfast.  Gen was feeling better and joined us at breakfast.  We packed a bit then Virginia went to the bird watching session on Deck 5 Aft with two of the Expedition Guides, Rodrigo and Catherine.  We saw an Albatross and Giant Brown Petrels.  They like to fly in the draft of the ship.

There were other lectures throughout the day – “Sled Dogs of the Antarctic”, “Climate Change”, and “Arctic Photography”.  Sled Dogs were introduced in the early 1900s and stayed there for 40 years.  Then it was decided that only animals native to the Antarctic could stay.  The dogs were sent to the Hudson Valley to Inuit Tribes. 

During High Tea, Michael the Cruise Director and Luis the Hotel Director talked about life on the Ship.  Luis started his career with Royal Caribbean on the Sovereign of the Seas.  It is very possible that he was on some of the Royal Ships which we sailed.  Of the 150 passengers on board, there were 18 nationalities including American, British, Canadian, Australian, Israeli, Mexican, French among others.  There are 28 nationalities withing the Crew.  It is always fun to ask questions directly to the Ship Crew and get to know them on a personal level.

The ship had made good distance and arrived close to the Beagle Channel by early afternoon.  The winds and waves quickly dissipated which made for a pleasant journey. This allowed the Captain to slow the ship and meander towards the channel to meet with a pilot boat in the middle of the night.

There was one last recap prior to dinner.  Each Expedition Team Member selected one photo or video which they most cherished from the week.  This was followed by a video montage by Videl, the photographer.  Highlights included the Minke Whales following us through the Lemaire Channel, the Leopard Seal following the Zodiacs through the Iceberg Graveyard, the sighting of a rare Snow Petrel – so many precious memories.  What a blessing it has been to experience this with our daughters and friends. 

Two young passengers, brother and sister from Australia, shared a special thank you to the crew, Expedition Team and passengers who made their visit special.  They concluded their appreciation by offering everyone to visit them in Australia.

Dinner theme was an Asian Fusion buffet.  There was a beautiful sunset to cap off a beautiful night.  Michael and Chase entertained us with songs of travel in the Dome.

Day 9 - Exploring Antarctica, George's Point and Fournier Bay, March 5, 2023

We were to have our last landing to Georges Point.  The day was overcast with snow on and off throughout the landing – big flakes of snow along with wind.  After dressing to go on the Zodiac, we were delayed because there was a humpback whale and a calve swimming in the area.  The other Zodiacs spent time for passengers to view it up close.

On Georges Point were Leopard Seal, Gentoo Penguin, Chinstrap Penguin and Skua birds.  At first, it was hard to distinguish between the seal and rocks until the seal would move.  It snowed so much during our short visit to the Island that it was soon easy to distinguish between the seals and rocks.  The seals were having a good time playing with on another and playing in the snow.

The Skua bird kept an eye to the penguin colony.  If they saw a young or older penguin that was struggling, they would claim them as a meal.  During breeding season, these Skua birds like to steal the penguin eggs for a meal.  Once again, circle of life.

Male and Female penguin look similar.  This makes it easy for them to share parental care.  One parent will stay with the egg then the baby while the other searches for food then vice versa.  By the parents looking alike, the baby will feel comfortable and secure with whichever parent they are with.

In the afternoon, we would be cruising Fournier Bay.  This is a good area to view whale, ice cliffs, ice bergs and glaciers.  The weather was overcast, windy with on and off sleet.  This cut short the number of Zodiacs which were able to cruise.  Our Zodiac pilot was Jean-Roc, the lead Expedition Guide.  No matter how much we searched, no whale was to be found. 

Because of the lack of whales, we learned more about ice cliffs and icebergs.  Jean-Roch explained the difference between glaciers and ice cliffs.  Ice Cliffs melt from the bottom.  The water erodes them by splashing at the bottom.  This makes them safer than glaciers calving.  The dangers of swells and waves do not occur with ice cliffs melting. 

We found an iceberg floating with a huge rock on it.  This occurred when ice would be melting into crevices and pulling stone and rocks with them.  Then the glacier would freeze with the stones and rock in it.  The clearer the ice, the older it is.  This is due to the air being compressed out of the ice. 

In a small bay, we came across two young Chinstrap Penguin hanging out together on a rock.  Everyone was concerned that they were by themselves away from the Colony.  Jean-Roch assured us that penguin travel together so finding them in a pair was normal.

The weather quickly turned with minimal visibility and sleet.  Jean-Roch called all of the Zodiacs back to the ship and cancelled the last group which was set to go out.  Disappointing for those who did not get the last cruise in.  We were fortunate to get the early landing in on the second day of the expedition.

At dinner, we celebrated Jerry and Virginia’s 35^th Wedding Anniversary and Gary and Sheridan’s 42^nd Wedding Anniversary.

A special treat for the passengers after dinner was a Ship Crew Talent Show.  Performances included a native Bali Dance by Dewi, the server at Paula’s Pantry, singing by Llewellyn from Guest Services, opera by Chase Chandler the piano player, guitar solos from Rodrio (Expedition Guide) and Thomas (Laundry).  Throughout the night, a raffle was held for various items from the gift shop.  The proceeds from the sale of the raffle tickets goes to the Crew Fund – funding parties, supporting their families and other needs.

Another fundraiser was an auction of the navigation map highlighting the path of the ship.  Two passengers were in a bidding war, and each bought a map for $1650 each.

Day 8, Exploring Antarctica, Lemaire Channel, Petermann Island, March 4, 2023

The ship was projected to be going through the Lemaire Channel in the early morning.  Sheridan had sold us on the beauty of this area.  It was a narrower area lined with tall glaciers.  Jerry and I chose to walk the track on the upper deck while maneuvering through the Channel at 7am.  Other passengers were congregating on the other outside decks to soak in the beauty.  Water’s Edge, the outside space on the 5^th deck has a heated seat which made viewing comfortable.

Two Minke Whales were playing in the water alongside the ship.  They are playful like dolphin – in and out of the water, clearing their blowhole and flapping their fins.  Due to the amount of ice and icebergs, it took at least an hour to maneuver through the Channel.

When we arrived at our designated landing space, there was too much ice against the shore preventing a safe landing.  We would be enjoying cruises in the Zodiac around the Iceberg Graveyard.  This was a bay where the current would push icebergs then trap them in the bay to “die”, aka melt.  The sizes, shapes and colors of the icebergs are amazing.  Photos cannot fully capture the majestic scene.  One needs to see it in person to fully appreciate the views.

A Leopard Seal followed our Zodiac for some time.  The bubbles of the Zodiac motor attracted it.  The seal would swim from one side to the other.  The water was clear enough to watch it swim below the water line then pop up.  We came upon a Crabeater Seal resting on an iceberg.  The Leopard Seal was very attentive, bouncing out of the water and sizing it up.  The mouth of the Leopard Seal opens 270 degrees to help capture its’ prey.  The Crabeater Seal was chattering a bit in hopes of scaring off the Leopard Seal.  The Leopard Seal determined that this Crabeater Seal was too large, so it lived to see another day.   

Fun fact - Crabeater Seals do not eat crabs.  Its’ name comes from its species name “carcinophaga” which means crab eater.  They eat krill.  They have lobe shaped teeth which allows them to filter the krill.  Though we realize that there is a circle of life all around us, we were glad not to witness it on the Zodiac ride.

Many of the Marine life eat krill.  Healthy penguin poo after eating krill will be pink on the ground and snow.  When the penguins are stressed, their poo is yellow and green.

Bad Joke – Which country is the largest consumer of krill?  Wales. 🐋😆

Our afternoon landing was at Petermann Island.  There was a small research hut on the island owned by the Argentine government; it was not open the day of our visit.  We were excited to see a different type of penguin – Adelie penguin.  The penguin were named for Adelie Land which had been named for Adle Dumont d’Urville who was married to French Explorer Jules Dumont d’Urville who discovered the penguin in 1840.  The Adelie penguin has a full black head with a white ring around its black iris.  It has a shorter breeding season than the Gentoo and Chinstrap.  The young are mature enough at 50-60 days to go out to sea. 

There were Gentoo penguin on Petermann Island, too.  Due to global warming, the Gentoo are moving into areas which are warming where previously other penguin breeds such as the Adelie only lived.  This is pushing the Adelie into other areas for breeding and finding food. 

A cross was erected on Petermann Island in memory of three members of the British Antarctic Survey who died in 1982 while crossing the sea from Petermann Island to Faraday Station.

Also found on this Island were Sku seabirds.  These brown birds are known to hang around penguin colonies to eat penguin eggs and penguin chicks.

After dinner, we enjoyed a musical selection by Michael Shapiro, the Cruise Director.  He had interesting, heart felt and at times, amusing stories of why the songs were significant to him.  Before singing “Annie’s Song” by John Denver, Michael told us about the time that he met John Denver.  John had been drinking.  Michael told him how beautiful he found “Annie’s Song” to be.  The song was name after John’s wife, Annie.  Drunk John told Michael that “the bitch was divorcing him and suing him for a lot of money”.

Day 7 - Danco Island and Neko Harbor, March 3, 2023

Another early morning so we chose having breakfast delivered to our room.  There were a few options for the morning landing – Advanced Hikers who would be hiking to the highest point on Danco Island and a 360-degree view of the area.  Less advanced hikers who would hike halfway to a rookery.  The last group would be Zodiac cruising around the island along with kayakers who would be taking to the water. 

We chose to be the Advanced Hikers.  There were points which were slippery; the walking sticks provided by the Cruise were helpful.  It was overcast and snowing which prevented a clear view of the area, but it was still a spirited, invigorating hike.  We saw younger penguin still with their mothers at this rookery to be seen.  By the end of the hike, we were a bit sweaty from the hike.

We had time to relax before lunch while the ship was repositioning.  It was going through a beautiful channel full of large icebergs and glaciers.  Bonus was the humpback whale which swam along the ship at various times. 

Our group would be the last for Zodiac tour this afternoon which allowed us time to rest and catch up on this blog!  Plus, Michael, the Cruise Director, announced that the Polar Plunge would be held after all the Zodiac Landing!  This is an activity to not ruminate about – just make the decision to do it and jump!

Our afternoon landing was to Neko Harbor where there was a Gentoo Penguin colony.  This would be our actual Antarctica Continental landing.  For some passengers, it was their 7^th Continent to visit.  It was the 5^th Continent for several in our group.  The photographer was taking photos of everyone with the Antarctic Flag.  We also brought a few additional flags of our own for photos – Pelotonia, Dream Vacations and Ohio State-Michigan State House Divided Flag. 

The penguin had created quite a highway system from the rocky beach area to the top of the rookery.  To maintain proper distance between us and the penguins, we had to give them the right of way when coming to a highway intersection.  They were quite entertaining – one stopped at the intersection trying to decide which direction to take, then it started scratching itself, preening until it finally decided to move on which allowed us to start moving again.  In the meantime, three other penguins had come and gone.

We walked to the top of the rookery – not as extensive of a hike as the morning hike but still a bit of a climb.  From the top, we were able to see the beautiful colors of the bay water and intricate blues of a glacier.  Jenna, Melanie, and Gary continued the hike to the bottom of the rookery.  The rest of us chose to stay at the top because we did not want to walk to the bottom then back to the top – it was an in and out hike.

Jenna, Melanie, and Gary were able to hear then see the calving of the glacier up close.  When calving occurs, swells are produced from the new icebergs displacing the water.  The swells were so large that Jean-Luc, the Head Guide, questioned whether we would be able to continue the Zodiac transfers.  We did manage to complete the Zodiac transfers.  Loading and unloading was delayed while the swells dissipated.  This resulted in a few of the full Zodiacs having to wait in the bay for an extra Zodiac cruise.

We were the last group to return from the Island.  Next was Polar Plunge!  Participants were walking around the ship with their robes over the swimsuits and cruise slippers.  Gen and Pete would be our official photographers from their balcony while the rest of us took the plunge. 

We were called to the Mud Room in the same groups as our Zodiac groups.  Our group would be the last with Melanie being THE LAST jumper.  While we were waiting, Sheridan managed to nab four tequila shots for us to enjoy while waiting in line.  The shots were actually for after the jump, but we had time waiting.  Plus, we were enjoying music thanks to Jenna’s playlist and Gary’s Bluetooth speaker.

The whole process was well orchestrated with many of the crew assisting.  Two Zodiacs were in the water – one held the ship’s photographer.  One of the guides checked us in and explained the process.  A crew member took our robe and kept the slippers organized. A belt was placed on our waist which a rope would be attached.  Two crew explained how to jump (to the left because the current was moving to the right), where to look (at the photographer in the Zodiac), then offer our right arm to him when coming up the ladder. 

The jump happened so fast – I barely had time to think.  I do remember getting water in my mouth though none went up my nose.   I immediately turned back to the ship, grabbed the rope to return to the ladder.  After being escorted back into the ship, a dry towel was provided, our robe and the tequila shot.  71 passengers took the plunge and 4 dipped their toes in the 32.5F water.

After long, hot showers, we enjoyed the Italian themed dinner together. 

Day 6 - South Shetland Islands, March 2, 2023

Group B was to be the first Zodiac Landing at 8:30am.  Because of this, we had breakfast delivered to the room early.  At the designated time, we reported to the Atlas Lounge then headed to the Mud Room to don our winter gear.  The landing took us to Hydrurga Rocks where the Chinstrap Penguin lived.  Hydrurga Rocks was covered with snow, and the snow continued to fall the entire time that we were there.  The penguin were in different stages of growth – young babies still being fed by their mother, young penguin maturing and molting adults.

The penguin are very instinctive and return to the same location yearly to breed and hatch the babies.  The Sheathbill Bird could be found amongst the penguins.  These birds feed off penguin dung.  Penguins do not always absorb all of the nutrients from their food.  The Sheathbill Bird then eats the leftover nutrients. Very lazy but also very efficient.

Being part of the first Zodiac group meant that we were the first group to return allowing free time.  We gathered in the Dome to relax and play cards before lunch.  The ship repositioned itself during lunch; relocating to Cierva Cove which is in the Palmer Archipelago in Hughes Bay. 

After lunch, Melanie, Jenna, Jerry, and I prepared for paddling.  Paddling was in the blow-up kayak style “Duckies”.  A waterproof suit and boots were provided.  There is a specific way to put the suit on without damaging the material.  The process was to put our feet in first, then our arms, put the neck over our head, zip the suit shut then “burp” the air out of the suit so it is suctioned on to the body.  Life jackets were then placed over the entire outfit.

We loaded into two Zodiacs which were pulling the Duckies behind.  After moving into the cove away from the ship, we carefully loaded ourselves into the Duckies.  We spent nearly 90 minutes paddling around the Cove through ice and around icebergs.  There was an Argentine research center across the bay.  Gentoo Penguin were ashore and popping around us in the water. 

While we were paddling, the rest of the passengers were cruising the bay in the Zodiacs.  A Leopard Seal followed our friends’ Zodiac for a time.  And the Leopard Seal caught a penguin and proceeded to demonstrate how it kills the penguin to prepare it for eating!  As paddlers, we did not see the Leopard Seal which may have been a good thing.

A briefing was held before dinner which highlighted what we had seen and to prepare us for what would be seen the next day.  The Guides also answer random questions from the passengers which allow us better understanding of Antarctica and the animals of the region.

Dinner was Japanese theme followed by bedtime. 

Day 5 - It's My Birthday! March 1, 2023

 It’s Virginia’s Birthday!  Jenna and Melanie decorated our cabin door to commemorate the day.  Our day started in the gym then onto breakfast. 

Though it was a day at sea, the day was very busy with preparation for our first landing on Thursday.   The first briefing was a Mandatory IAATO (International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators) Briefing.  IAATO  was founded in 1991 to advocate and promote the practice of save and environmentally responsible private-sector travel to the Antarctic.  Antarctica has been governed internationally by the provisions of the Antarctic Treaty since 1959.  The participating countries have research centers on the Continent and are dedicated to peace on the Continent.  A limited amount of tourism is allowed on the Continent though it is self-regulated for the most part.  By traveling with an IAATO Member operator, we are contributing to the protection of Antarctica. 

Having visited the 7^th Continent, we are now considered “Antarctic Ambassadors”, responsible for spreading the knowledge of the land and helping protect it.

The next two mandatory sessions involved a fitting of our parkas and boots along with a Compulsory Biosecurity Check.  The parkas and boots are kept in the Mud Room.  It is located on Deck Three next to the exit door for the Zodiacs.  The parkas are bright green and quite warm.  The borrowed boots keep our feet warm along with helping us traverse the sometimes rocky and slippery terrain.  We also checked the fitting for our life jackets.  All of this is kept in an open locker in the Mud Room.  Each cabin is issued a locker. 

During the Biosecurity Check, the Expedition guides review our outer layers for any contaminants that could be carried ashore.  A vacuum is used to remove any hairs, or dirt from pockets and exteriors which could introduce non-native species to the Continent.

All this preparation was for our first landing which was scheduled to be on Thursday, March 2.  We at lunch then planned to attend the afternoon briefings which included a lecture on Antarctic Ecology along with a Binocular Workshop and Birdwatching with Catherine and Rodrigo.  Catherine is on vacation from her normal university position.  She is very engaging and shares her knowledge in a relatable manner.  Another lecture was entitled “Who Does Antarctica Belong To?”.  All these lectures were cancelled because we were going ashore!  The weather conditions were right which allowed the Captain to change plans and take advantage of the opportunity for an additional landing.

There was excitement in the air as we are in B Group and were requested to go to the Atlas Lounge for further instructions.  This would be a good test of the process of what to wear, how to maneuver getting prepared in the Mud Room when it was filled with other excited passengers.

Our first landing was in Yankee Bay of Greenwich Island.  It was a rocky area with little snow but lots of Gentoo Penguins.  Also present were Fur Seals and Elephant Seals, and a few Giant Petrels.  Plus, two lone Chinstrap Penguins.  The weather was not too cold with little wind.  It was exhilarating to be able to walk out in the cold, taking in the beautiful scenery and observing the animals in their natural habitat.  When we first approached the landing area, we were greeted by the smell of penguin poo however we soon become accustomed to it and it was not as prevalent the longer that we were on land.

We were given 45 minutes to wander around the Bay.  Pylons were set out to create a barrier between us and the penguin.  Penguin always have the right of way, and we were to stay a minimum of 5 meters away.  The day was overcast and cool; we were bundled just right to remain warm without becoming over heated.

After the Zodiac landing, we returned to the ship where we were greeted by a crew member with a warm towel and warm punch which became a rum punch with the addition of alcohol.  This added to the festive feeling that surrounded our first penguin sightings and Zodiac landing.

A briefing was held prior to dinner.  Answering questions and preparing us for the next day.

Dinner was a French theme.  The staff celebrated Virginia’s birthday by singing “Happy Birthday” and bringing a special cake to commemorate the day.

Day 4 - Travelling through Drake's Passage, February 28, 2023

 February 28, 2023

We were a full day at sea while the ship headed south to Antarctica through the Strait of Magellan then into Drake Passage.  Drake Passage was named for the explorer, Sir Francis Drake, who had steered his ship, Golden Hind, into the passage in the 16^th Century.  The waters of the Drake Passage are some of the roughest seas.  This can result in motion sickness for those who navigate the waters.  This did occur with some of the passengers on our ship.  All of us with motion sickness look forward to pushing into the Shetland Islands where we would be better sheltered from the wind and rough seas.

Our morning started in the gym.  Surprisingly, we found that the motion of the ship was smoother than the roll of the ship occurring in our cabin. 

Breakfast was in the dining room, Lisboa.  Options include a buffet and ala carte.  The buffet has American and European options – scrambled eggs, breakfast meats, oatmeal, cheese, baked beans, salmon, granola, yogurt and much more.  The ala carte selections include omelets, made to order eggs, pancakes – with real maple syrup, waffles, and French toast.  Fresh squeezed orange juice is a treat.  On days when we are not scheduled to go off ship, Mimosas and Bloody Mary drinks are available.

A mandatory Zodiac briefing was held in the morning.  The Zodiacs are large, pontoon type boats which hold up to 12 people.  As passengers, we would be divided into 6 groups of approximately 25; labeled A-F.  Groups travelling together could request to be placed into the same group.  The groups would be scheduled to enter the Zodiacs at certain times when going ashore.  The pattern of the groups would change to allow each group an opportunity to be first, etc.  The time ashore would be equal for each group once arriving.  The ship has worked through the logistics of being as fair and equal as possible.

Safety was a major focus of the briefing.  All of us will be issued a life jacket to be always worn when on the Zodiacs and ashore.  The life jacket has a clear plastic pouch to hold our sea pass card.  This is dual purpose – one is that it makes it easy for ship’s security to record us on and off the ship.  The second purpose is if an emergency occurs which knocks us unconscious, we are easily identifiable. 

We were given guidance as to the proper technique to load and unload the zodiac – minimal standing to keep us stable from rogue swells.  Our boots are cleaned and sanitized before getting on the Zodiac both from the ship and the shore.  This prevents the migration of germs and contaminants between ship and shore.  The eco-system in Antarctica is very fragile, and as “Antarctic Ambassadors” it is our responsibility to keep it safe and educate others of this beautiful continent.

Recommendations of what to wear was presented.  Cotton clothing is not recommended because when it becomes wet, it remains cold against the skin.  Most are wearing one or two layers of cold weather gear under wind and water-resistant pants.  Atlas Ocean Voyages provides a parka – bright green and very warm.  The parka is ours to keep though there is an option to leave it with the cruise line who then donates the jackets to a charity at the end of the season.  Neck gaiters, hats, goggles and waterproof gloves are also recommended.

We had to keep in mind the use of cameras when dressing.  There are waterproof cases for phones which have clear casing allowing for excellent photos and videos.  Having the phones on a neck lanyard helps keep your hands free to get on and off the Zodiac and use walking sticks on land.  We saw some with digital SLR cameras and high-tech lenses.  Either option can capture beautiful memories.

After lunch, there was a kayaking/paddling briefing.  Atlas offers two options – kayaking with regular dual passenger kayaks with multiple tours.  The other option is paddling in blow-up kayaks called “Duckies”.  This excursion will only have one tour throughout the cruise.  The guides are from British Columbia and Vancouver Island.  They enjoy coming to the Antarctic during its summer then return to Canada to be guides during its summer.

For those who want to say that they have camped on Antarctica, there is an overnight camping experience.  Camping involves going to shore at 10pm then returning to the ship at 5am.  As the guides mention, there is no campfire, no singing around a campfire, no s’mores, and no restroom facility.  Strictly sleeping in a tent on Antarctica.  There is limited space for this excursion.  No one from our group chose this option; we prefer our comfy bed on a warm ship.

Each day in the Dome, high tea is served.  There is a selection of teas, sandwiches, and treats.  Bit disappointed that scones, biscuits, and cream were not served.  We did find treats that we could enjoy.  This first day, Chase, the piano player challenged the group with his version of “Name That Tune”, TV and movie selections.  Scores were not being kept however Chase did say that our collective score beat that of other cruises.

An optional briefing about the birds of Antarctica was held before dinner.  The ornithologists on ship enjoy sharing their knowledge.  So much so that their briefing was a bit overwhelming with the details.  Some of the birds that we will be seeing are the giant petrel. Albatross, terns, and gulls.  There is a board which keeps track of the types of species seen and on which day.

The Captain had a welcome reception in the Atlas Lounge.  The entire group of officers are male and represent a variety of nations – Portugal, Ukraine, Peru, among others.  The ship is flagged in Portugal, owned by Mystic Cruises.  This ship launched in November of 2022 and cruises the Antarctic, Artic, Mediterranean, and other smaller ports where large ships cannot reach.

Dinner was a sit-down.  Having eight in our group at times makes it difficult to locate a table which can accommodate our entire group.  There is a 12-top table in the Lisboa Dining Room.  It was open when we arrived for dinner.  Late into our meal, the Cruise Director, Michael Shapiro, joined us.  We had an entertaining conversation learning about his life in entertainment.  His path in the cruise industry has taken him from Paul Gaugin Cruises in Tahiti to the Antarctic.