Day 4 - Travelling through Drake's Passage, February 28, 2023

 February 28, 2023

We were a full day at sea while the ship headed south to Antarctica through the Strait of Magellan then into Drake Passage.  Drake Passage was named for the explorer, Sir Francis Drake, who had steered his ship, Golden Hind, into the passage in the 16^th Century.  The waters of the Drake Passage are some of the roughest seas.  This can result in motion sickness for those who navigate the waters.  This did occur with some of the passengers on our ship.  All of us with motion sickness look forward to pushing into the Shetland Islands where we would be better sheltered from the wind and rough seas.

Our morning started in the gym.  Surprisingly, we found that the motion of the ship was smoother than the roll of the ship occurring in our cabin. 

Breakfast was in the dining room, Lisboa.  Options include a buffet and ala carte.  The buffet has American and European options – scrambled eggs, breakfast meats, oatmeal, cheese, baked beans, salmon, granola, yogurt and much more.  The ala carte selections include omelets, made to order eggs, pancakes – with real maple syrup, waffles, and French toast.  Fresh squeezed orange juice is a treat.  On days when we are not scheduled to go off ship, Mimosas and Bloody Mary drinks are available.

A mandatory Zodiac briefing was held in the morning.  The Zodiacs are large, pontoon type boats which hold up to 12 people.  As passengers, we would be divided into 6 groups of approximately 25; labeled A-F.  Groups travelling together could request to be placed into the same group.  The groups would be scheduled to enter the Zodiacs at certain times when going ashore.  The pattern of the groups would change to allow each group an opportunity to be first, etc.  The time ashore would be equal for each group once arriving.  The ship has worked through the logistics of being as fair and equal as possible.

Safety was a major focus of the briefing.  All of us will be issued a life jacket to be always worn when on the Zodiacs and ashore.  The life jacket has a clear plastic pouch to hold our sea pass card.  This is dual purpose – one is that it makes it easy for ship’s security to record us on and off the ship.  The second purpose is if an emergency occurs which knocks us unconscious, we are easily identifiable. 

We were given guidance as to the proper technique to load and unload the zodiac – minimal standing to keep us stable from rogue swells.  Our boots are cleaned and sanitized before getting on the Zodiac both from the ship and the shore.  This prevents the migration of germs and contaminants between ship and shore.  The eco-system in Antarctica is very fragile, and as “Antarctic Ambassadors” it is our responsibility to keep it safe and educate others of this beautiful continent.

Recommendations of what to wear was presented.  Cotton clothing is not recommended because when it becomes wet, it remains cold against the skin.  Most are wearing one or two layers of cold weather gear under wind and water-resistant pants.  Atlas Ocean Voyages provides a parka – bright green and very warm.  The parka is ours to keep though there is an option to leave it with the cruise line who then donates the jackets to a charity at the end of the season.  Neck gaiters, hats, goggles and waterproof gloves are also recommended.

We had to keep in mind the use of cameras when dressing.  There are waterproof cases for phones which have clear casing allowing for excellent photos and videos.  Having the phones on a neck lanyard helps keep your hands free to get on and off the Zodiac and use walking sticks on land.  We saw some with digital SLR cameras and high-tech lenses.  Either option can capture beautiful memories.

After lunch, there was a kayaking/paddling briefing.  Atlas offers two options – kayaking with regular dual passenger kayaks with multiple tours.  The other option is paddling in blow-up kayaks called “Duckies”.  This excursion will only have one tour throughout the cruise.  The guides are from British Columbia and Vancouver Island.  They enjoy coming to the Antarctic during its summer then return to Canada to be guides during its summer.

For those who want to say that they have camped on Antarctica, there is an overnight camping experience.  Camping involves going to shore at 10pm then returning to the ship at 5am.  As the guides mention, there is no campfire, no singing around a campfire, no s’mores, and no restroom facility.  Strictly sleeping in a tent on Antarctica.  There is limited space for this excursion.  No one from our group chose this option; we prefer our comfy bed on a warm ship.

Each day in the Dome, high tea is served.  There is a selection of teas, sandwiches, and treats.  Bit disappointed that scones, biscuits, and cream were not served.  We did find treats that we could enjoy.  This first day, Chase, the piano player challenged the group with his version of “Name That Tune”, TV and movie selections.  Scores were not being kept however Chase did say that our collective score beat that of other cruises.

An optional briefing about the birds of Antarctica was held before dinner.  The ornithologists on ship enjoy sharing their knowledge.  So much so that their briefing was a bit overwhelming with the details.  Some of the birds that we will be seeing are the giant petrel. Albatross, terns, and gulls.  There is a board which keeps track of the types of species seen and on which day.

The Captain had a welcome reception in the Atlas Lounge.  The entire group of officers are male and represent a variety of nations – Portugal, Ukraine, Peru, among others.  The ship is flagged in Portugal, owned by Mystic Cruises.  This ship launched in November of 2022 and cruises the Antarctic, Artic, Mediterranean, and other smaller ports where large ships cannot reach.

Dinner was a sit-down.  Having eight in our group at times makes it difficult to locate a table which can accommodate our entire group.  There is a 12-top table in the Lisboa Dining Room.  It was open when we arrived for dinner.  Late into our meal, the Cruise Director, Michael Shapiro, joined us.  We had an entertaining conversation learning about his life in entertainment.  His path in the cruise industry has taken him from Paul Gaugin Cruises in Tahiti to the Antarctic.